Skin Inc. April 2006
The Esthetic Benefits of Oxygen Skin Care
by: Craig Wenborg, MD
Abstract: Learn about this new trend in skin care treatments.
The esthetic industry constantly is exploring
new ways to change the structure and appearance of the skin. Oxygen
is one of the latest contributions to the field. Modern technology
has eliminated many of the inconveniences associated with providing
this type of service in a spa setting.
The history of oxygen skin care began with
its topical application to hasten the healing of burns. In hospital
environments, pressurized oxygen in tanks is utilized. The disadvantages
of this delivery method within a spa are obvious; the tanks require
refilling and pose a potential fire hazard.
Oxygen skin care is based on the premise
that stable natural oxygen increases skin cell metabolism. All
cells require natural oxygen, which consists of two atoms bound
together by a stable covalent-or chemical-bond. This is not to
be confused with unstable forms of oxygen, which are known as
free radicals.
The most common free radical is a single
oxygen atom. These atoms are unstable, due to unpaired electrons
in their outer shell. Free radicals react readily in a chemical
process called oxidation. Cell membranes are the most vulnerable
to this type of damage, which can be neutralized by the benefits
of antioxidant nutrients.
Delivery methods
Early practitioners utilized dry oxygen application techniques-clients
wore a face mask or inhaled oxygen. It soon was determined, however,
that applying oxygen in conjunction with a liquid solution-commonly
referred to as serums or hydrosols-offers several advantages.
First, the chemistry of the liquid can be used as a healing tool.
In addition, the substance is effective as a coupling medium for
transferring one product to another location. In this case, liquid
solutions carry oxygen directly into the epidermis.
Due to their disbursement capabilities,
reasonable cost and easy clean-up features, nebulizers are the
preferred application vehicle for administering oxygen skin care.
The sole purpose of these plastic or glass devices is to create
a mist of fine particulate solution, so the more consistent the
particulate size, the better the infusion.
Plants and peptides
Plants have a long history of providing multiple topical skin
care benefits. Naturally occurring groups of phytochemicals promote
skin health by alleviating inflammation, neutralizing free radicals,
toning blood vessels, improving circulation and cell membrane
function, and reducing bacteria levels. The synergistic effect
of topical oxygen combined with the multiple compounds found in
plant-based hydrosol solutions provide a balanced natural approach
to promoting optimum skin function.
New to the science of skin care are peptides,
which are sequences of amino acids-the building blocks of protein.
A number of these peptides are of interest in the field of anti-aging.
Peptides have been shown to be effective in reducing fine lines
and wrinkles. Anti-aging oxygen skin care hydrosols consist of
a mixture of plants and peptides-the best of nature and science.
The art of application
In oxygen skin care, there are several factors that affect the
art of application. The first of these is the amount of time that
oxygen remains on the epidermis. The longer the contact with the
desired area of the skin, the more optimal the outcome. The liquid
flow rate must be precise enough so as to avoid overflooding the
skin. When administered in the proper amounts, oxygen and liquid
solutions can be applied to the targeted section for an extended
duration and with better results.
The second factor is referred to as etching,
which is the process of working a given line or wrinkle in order
to flatten it. This is accomplished through longer oxygen contact
time in which the skin's metabolism can be stimulated to achieve
an enhanced effect.
The proper equipment
Oxygen concentrators produce the substance in a natural form by
drawing it from room air, which consists of 21% oxygen, 5% inert
gas and 74% nitrogen. A properly operating concentrator will deliver
95% oxygen.
Ordinary oxygen concentrators are designed
to produce a sufficient amount for a single user to inhale within
a home environment. These types of concentrators do not have the
performance capabilities to be used in providing modern oxygen
skin care. The ones that are utilized in esthetic services extract
oxygen, filter particulates, and reduce or eliminate a wide variety
of indoor air pollutants.
Estheticians or spa owners who are looking
to purchase an oxygen machine for use in their skin care practice
should keep the following criteria in mind in order to select
a device that will last them the length of their career.
1. As stated previously, a well-functioning machine will produce
95% oxygen. This percentage is critical, because the higher the
outflow concentration, the better the results. An important consideration
involves individual state rules and regulations. Some states will
not allow the use of 100% USP (U.S. Pharmacopeia) tanked oxygen
in esthetics. Be sure to check with your state board to see what
is allowed in the state that you practice.
2. Outflow pressure is what drives the application of oxygen.
In order for the applicator-or nebulizer-to work properly, at
least 25 pounds of pressure is required. An ordinary concentrator
will deliver only 12 pounds of pressure. An inadequate amount
will yield a poor outcome.
3. Keep in mind that volume is not necessarily
important in oxygen skin care. Only a small amount of oxygen can
be pushed through a nebulizer. Consequently, machines that offer
the largest outflow rating may not be the most cost-effective
options.
4. Noise-or the lack thereof-is a key consideration
for both the esthetician and the client. A loud oxygen machine
in your treatment room will create a distraction for you and your
clientele for many years to come. (END HANGING NUMBERS)
Economics of oxygen skin care
Oxygen skin care can be marketed
to a spa's clientele as a stand-alone service or as one component
in a package of multiple procedures. Get creative, and come up
with some enticingly named hydrosol formulations to add to your
menu, such as "Anti-aging Wonder," "Fiji Floral
Collection" or "Hawaiian Healing." A brief description
of these available options will enable clients to determine their
application solution of choice.
Anti-aging oxygen skin care, in which plant-
and peptide-based hydrosols are used, is especially popular. The
client receives a topical application with a 21-day supply of
nutritional supplements. When the supply runs out, the individual
returns for a new box of nutrients, as well as an examination
and a progress report. In my practice, I see many clients who
come to me on this schedule for their regular skin care needs.
I bundle the two procedures into one fee, which would be lower
than if each component were to be purchased individually.
The medical spa side of oxygen skin care
involves treating skin conditions that have been diagnosed by
a dermatologist. Hydrosols blended from plants provide anti-inflammatory
properties. In this case, the client would return for treatment
on a prescribed basis, and a fee for each service would be determined.
Clients who receive exfoliation treatments
at your spa will benefit from oxygen skin care at the conclusion
of their procedures. Hydrosols containing replenishing properties
work to calm the skin, reduce inflammation and tone blood vessels.
Combine the billing of all services into a set fee for these clients.
Dollars and sense
The business side of oxygen skin
care involves the cost of liquid solutions (averaging $3 per treatment),
time spent (average of 10 minutes per treatment) and the financial
return on each treatment (based on the fee charged). As a stand-alone
procedure, a $50 treatment nets a profit of $47. Time spent is
returned at almost $5 per minute. When combined with consumable
products and other spa services, this revenue can be enhanced
significantly.
Topical oxygen skin care is a new noninvasive
spa service that delivers high levels of client satisfaction,
as well as significant repeat business. As an esthetician or spa
owner, it could be an investment that pays off long term with
substantial financial returns.
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